Cat Training

Do you want to train kitty not to scratch your expensive furniture? If yes, you need to train him to use the scratching post. But not just any one will do. It needs to be right for your cat. And you may need more than one.

Before you make your selection, you need to know why cats scratch furniture. There are 3 main reasons:

• Mark their territory
• Maintain their claws
• Stretch and tone their muscles

If your cat scratches your sofa to mark his territory, he probably also scratches some other pieces of furniture – like your wardrobe, or dining room table. In this case, you’ll need more than one scratching post. Before you faint at the thought of buying five $100 scratching posts, you need to know that buying the most expensive posts from your local pet shop is not the best idea. More than one cat owner has complained that his cat left the expensive scratching post alone, instead preferring to scratch the cardboard box it came in.

Maybe kitty scratched your carpet or the back of your dining room chair to maintain his claws. His claws are a lot more complex than our finger nails, and he can’t clip his claws, can he? This is one reason why many cat owners buy scratching posts made from sisal. Kitty can really dig his claws into the sisal, while it is tough and relatively long-lasting. But if you look at it, carpet is also quite tough, and you can buy small pieces cheap from Walmart or get left-over pieces for free from your local carpet shop. The thick cardboard used for packing cases also has the same properties. You can get these for free from your neighborhood shops.

Don’t forget that cats also scratch furniture to stretch and tone their muscles. You’ll understand when you see how they scratch your wardrobe – they reach up, dig their claws in, then drag them down. That means whatever you buy must be firm and stable, and high enough for kitty to scratch as usual. Look at the claw marks on your furniture now. If they are 3 feet up, then the scratching post must be at least 3 feet high. Not only that – when kitty leans his weight against it, it must not shake or topple over.

Here are some tips to make your own cheap scratching posts:

• Planks, crates and pieces from old furniture
• Logs and thick tree branches, especially with the bark still on them
• Thick cardboard, like the type used to make packing cases
• Carpet

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Sometimes, your cat attacks your feet when you sit down for a rest. Or he may bite and scratch your feet as you walk around the house. Does your cat hate you? On the contrary, he is playing with you, and showing that he loves you. Nevertheless, all this biting and scratching can hurt, and is not fun for you.

There are several reasons why your cat will attack your feet and legs (besides the fact that he is short and can’t reach your face when he swipes those claws of his). First of all, when he stalks and pounces on your feet, he is just playing – enacting a hunting game. He is pretending that your feet are his prey, like a mouse or bird. He is just following his natural instincts. If you have ever seen a litter of kittens play with each other, you will understand. They tumble around, roughhousing. But there will also be one or two of them who will be stalking their playmates, bellies low to the ground, ready to jump and pounce on their target.

This leads to the second reason – kitty is just playing and wants the attention of his favorite human being – YOU! He has excess energy, and wants you to play with him. Although your little tiger is just doing all this to show you his affection, you want him to stop biting and clawing your feet and legs. After all, it hurts. But you also don’t want to punish him. After all, he is just doing this because he loves you.

The first thing you can do is to play with kitty regularly. You should do this two or three times everyday. Depending on how active your cat is, ten or twenty minutes of playtime in the morning and at night should keep him happy and satisfied. This will bleed off his excess energy and at the same time show him that he is Number One in your life. If he bites or scratches too hard, you may want to play with him using cat toys. A toy mouse which squeaks when your little tiger pounces on it will work well. Just drag the rubber mouse along the ground for him to chase.

Besides playing with him, brushing his fur, bathing him when necessary and trimming his claws are also important activities. All these cat grooming activities provide more opportunities to spend quality time with kitty. And there is a side benefit of trimming his claws – it hurts less when he scratches you.

Another thing you can do is to put a collar with a bell on your cat. This will help to give you a few moments warning when kitty pounces on you from ambush. At the very least, it will keep you from being surprised and tripping over him. If you carry a spray bottle of water, you can squirt him with a little bit of cold water just as he leaps on your feet. This won’t hurt him, but will surprise him and he won’t like it. You want to catch him in the act to discourage him, so do not spray him after he finishes pouncing on you. Remember: Only squirt him with water as he is pouncing on your feet!

Your cat attacks your feet because he is playing out his natural instincts as a hunter. He is also playing with you, just as he played with his litter mates as a small kitten. You can never really stop this behavior, but you can keep in under control. Regular scheduled playtimes, using cat toys instead of your hands and feet – these are just some of the ways you can use.

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Why Should You Trim Your Cat’s Claws?

Cat claws are naturally sharp, and can do a lot of damage to both yourself and your furniture. The best way to deal with destructive cat behavior is to understand your cat’s behavior and train him not to scratch and claw at you and your furniture. However, even at the best of times, kitty can become over-excited and fall back into his natural behavior. At times like these, you’ll be glad if your cats claws have been blunted.

There are three main ways to minimize the damage from cat scratching:

• Trim kitty’s claws
• Apply a soft cover over your cat’s claws
• Cat declawing

Trimming kitty’s claws is one of the best and cheapest ways to go. You basically trim off the sharp, hooked tip of your cat’s claws so that they can’t cause as much damage when the scratch you or your furniture. Depending on the amount you trim, you may need to do this every fortnight, or even monthly. How much you trim off every time depends on both kitty’s comfort level and your comfort level. It’s best to start slow, until you build up a high level of trust.

Besides trimming cat claws, you can also apply a soft cover over the claws. Normally, you’ll need to apply a special glue to stick these covers over kitty’s claws. Of course, over time these soft covers will come off, so you need to replace them regulars. Check with your local pet store for the best brand for your breed of cat.

Declawing your cat really means that the vet will cut off the first joint of your cat’s toes. As you can guess, this is not only very traumatic to cats, it permanently prevents them from defending themselves. It even prevents them from climbing trees and other high places to escape from danger. In many cases, cat owners have reported behavior problems following this operation. Nowadays, this operation is illegal in many places.

What Is The Best Way To Trim Cat Claws?

If you are trimming kitty’s claws for the first time, it is best to go to a vet. Ask him to show you how to do it right. However, here are the important steps to note:

• Make sure you have good lighting available
• Support kitty firmly and securely in your left arm
• Hold his front paw in your left hand
• Extend his claw by pressing firmly but gently on the pad area
• Examine the claw to find a pink area – this area contains blood vessels and nerves, and is called the quick. It is critical to avoid this area when you do the trimming
• Quickly snip off the tip of the claw with a pair of clippers
• Repeat until you finish

If you only have one cat, you may want to schedule a regular appointment with your vet. Most vets charge in the range of $10 to $20 to do this. If you ask for regular appointments and pay for everything up front, he should be willing to give you a discount.

What Else Do I Need To Know About Trimming Kitty’s Claws?

Here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

• If your cat struggles, you can wrap him up in a thick bath towel with only the paw extended. Another way is to wait until he is asleep
• You can use nail clippers for people, or buy special clippers from your pet shop. Note that there are different sizes, so you want to buy one which fits your cat’s claws
• Normally you hold the clippers parallel to the flat part of the claw. But if you find that this splinters kitty’s claw, rotate the position 90 degrees so that it is vertical
• Initially, only clip off the sharp tip of the claws. Once you build up a greater degree of trust, you can clip off more if you want to
• Do only one paw at a time, unless kitty is really comfortable with the procedure
• Usually, you don’t need to trim the back toenails. It may even be undesirable if yours is an indoor-outdoor cat
• Give you cat a treat to distract him or as a reward
• This bears repeating – avoid the “quick”

As you can see, trimming cat claws is not a difficult task. It can really cut down on the amount of damage they do when playing with you or scratching your furniture. The first time you do it, it is best to ask the vet to show you the proper way.

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Nothing smells worse than cat spray. Together with cat pee outside the litter box, cat spraying is one of the leading causes of cats being given away, abandoned or put down. Marriages have come under enormous strain, when one spouse puts down their foot to stop the cat’s spraying problem or give up the cat. Tenants have been forced by landlords to either move out or get rid of the spraying cat.

This is very sad, because cat spraying problems can be solved or greatly reduced in many cases. First, though, we need to tell the difference between cat spray and cat urine. Spray is actually a bit of urine mixed with pheromones secreted by glands in your cat. The positions your cat takes for spraying is also different from peeing – they stand straight up and lift their bottoms high up in the air to spray instead of squatting to urinate.

Both male and female cats spray. Unneutered males are the most likely to have this problem, neutered female the least likely. Although spraying is considered a problem by people, it is a perfectly natural behavior for cats.

Do be aware that your cat may suddenly start spraying when he is sick. For example, inflammations of the bladder are known to cause cats to spray. If your cat is neutered and he suddenly develops this behavior, you should take him for a check-up at the vet before doing anything else.

On major reason for cats spraying is to attract mates. Female cats in heat spray to advertise that they are ready. Male cats spray to mark their territory – they are saying “Keep out! Females here are mine!”. This is one reason why you should always neuter your cats. Unneutered tomcats are very likely to spray. Once he develops this behavior, it is very difficult to stop even after you neuter him. Many vets are willing to neuter your male cat as long as he is at least 6 months old. Some prefer to wait until he is 9 months old while others are willing to do it even earlier. You should also spay female cats when they reach 6 months of age, before their first heat.

When you bring a new pet or new family member home, this can also cause your cat to spray. Whether you explain it as stress and insecurity or territoriality or dominance behavior, it does not really matter. The point is to make kitty feel safe and secure again. Once you successfully make him feel that he is still Numero Uno, he will stop spraying. While your vet can help you to investigate why your cat is spraying, you know kitty best. You are the best person to figure out why he is spraying. Asking your vet to play private investigator can take quite a long time – he will take a step-by-step methodical approach to the problem. Cases have been published in journals for veterinarians where it took years to resolve the problem. If you really love your cat, you are still the best person to make him stop spraying.

Once your cat has sprayed a particular location, he is likely to go back and spray it again. One way to stop this is to thoroughly clean the area he sprayed. Normal soap and water will not do the job. Just because you cannot smell anything does not mean your cat cannot smell anything. The best solution is to use a blacklight (UV lamp) in the dark to find the spots and clean it with an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle.

Cat spray is a very smelly problem which has caused many cats to be abandoned by their owners. However, this is a problem which can be solved. If you love your cat, you have an obligation to him and to yourself to stop him from spraying.

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Is your little tiger driving you up the wall with one of the following cat problems?

Biting And Scratching You

Cats naturally have a lot of energy. If you keep kitty indoors, he may not be getting enough stimulation and may be overly enthusiastic when playing with you. It is best if you can schedule some regular playtimes with your cat to bleed off some of this excess energy. Often, you will find that he will stop biting and scratching you too hard all on his own.

You probably don’t want to bleed while waiting for kitty to calm down. Instead of rough-housing with him, play with him using some kitty toys instead. Try a squeeking rubber mouse, or a ball. You can also dangle something on a toy fishing pole for him to chase.

Don’t punish your cat if he plays too rough. Just immediately stop playing with him and don’t pay any more attention to him until he calms down. If he chases after you, you may need to confine him in a room on his own.

Fighting With Another Cat

What looks like fighting to you may be just playing to your cats! The fine line between playing and fighting is this: are they hurting each other?

Very often, the fighting is started by one cat. If you observe carefully, you will find that one of your cats frequently tries to ambush the other cat. A simple way to stop this problem is to hang a bell on the collar of this cat. This makes it harder for him to ambush the other cat, and will help to reduce the fights.

One more thing you can do is to trim the nails of the more aggressive cat. You can ask your vet to show you how to do this. With shorter nails, he won’t be able to hurt the other cat as much.

Scratching Your Furniture

Unfortunately, this problem behavior is not possible to stop. What you can do is redirect kitty’s attention to something else more acceptable to scratch, like a scratching post. You will need to experiment to discover which type of scratching posts your cat likes best. At the same time, you need to make it unpleasant for kitty to scratch your furniture. One way is to apply a kind of sticky pad to the surfaces which he likes to scratch. You can buy this sticky pad from your local pet shop. Keep scratching posts near all the surfaces which kitty likes to scratch, and he will quickly shift his attentions to these posts.

Spraying And Marking Territory

This is sometimes the toughest behavior to deal with, because there can be many reasons for cat spraying. The first step is to make sure all your cats are spayed or neutered. Spayed and neutered cats are less territorial, and rarely spray.

Sometimes your cats spray because they feel stressed. This could be caused by a change in your schedule, or the introduction of a new cat, or even by extra noise from road repairs outside your home.

Other times, if you have too many cats in your home, one or more of your cats will spray.

So, how can you stop this problem? First, you need to identify the reason for spraying, then eliminate that reason. Unfortunately, this is easier to say than to do. In May 2004, the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists published a case study where they took 3 or 4 years to stop this cat spraying and urination problem.

You may want to get some help from your vet. In some cases, he might prescribe some kind of cat Prozac which could help reduce the stress your cat is feeling. This would reduce the spraying problem.

Dealing with cat problems is tough unless you know kitty well. Sometimes, it can be very helpful to ask a third party like your vet for some help and advice.

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You have a cuddly new kitten and you want to learn more about kitten care and training. Let us look at a few cases:

1. You own mother cat and the kittens belong to her

This can be the best situation or the worst situation. If mother cat is well trained and well behaved, her kittens will follow her lead and you will have no trouble. If not…

Still, all is not lost. As long as you successfully train mother cat, her kittens will fall in line. You just have to be patient, that’s all. And keep a bottle of aspirin handy to deal with the inevitable headaches.

2. You have a nursing mother cat and an orphaned kitten

This is very similar to point #1. Except that you first need to get your cat to accept the kitten. Just rub the orphan with mother cat’s own kittens to get their scent on the orphan. Then place the orphan with the other kittens and supervise to make sure everything goes well.

Another way to get mother cat’s scent on the orphan is to put a little drop of soft, unsalted butter (not margarine) on the orphan. Rub a little dollop on its head and sides, so that mother cat will give it a good lick.

While there is no guarantee, many cat breeders have found that mother cats do accept orphaned kittens.

3. You only have the kitten

In this case, you will have to hand-raise the kitten. The first thing is to get her to a vet for a thorough check-up. Ask him for specific advice on raising your particular kitten. If you cannot afford a trip to the vet, check with your local animal shelter or SPCA for advice.

In general, you will need to feed your kitten KMR (Kitten Milk Replacement) before slowly weaning it to solid food. Do not use cow’s milk, as many kittens are lactose-intolerant.

You will want to train your kitten in these 3 areas to prevent future problem behavior:

• Litter training to use the litter box
• Socialization so they do not bite and scratch you during playtime
• Do not scratch your furniture

Kitten litter training is almost the same as litter training an adult cat. However, here are a few things to beware of:

• Get a shallow litter box – avoid automatic cat litter boxes.
• Do not use clumping cat litter or crystal cat litter.
• Sand is usually the safest litter. Some brands of clay or biodegradable litter may also be suitable. Check the label.

Cat biting/scratching often occur because kittens are not properly socialized. A kitten in a litter quickly learns not to bite or scratch too hard during playtime. Over-aggressive kittens quickly find themselves without playmates. When you play with your kitten, you should be careful to do the same – if she bites or scratches too much or too hard, you should immediately stop playing and ignore her.

Training your kitten to use the scratching post is also very important. Before she forms the habit of going after your furniture, you should get her used to the scratching post. This kind of scratching is a part of her nature and necessary exercise for her claws and spine. It is also a way of marking her territory. Like her litter box, her scratching post should not be moved around your house.

If you properly care for and bond with your kitten, you will have an excellent companion for a good many years. Train her right, and she will never give you any trouble.

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Cats are cute. Cats are loveable. Unfortunately, many cats love to scratch your furniture and carpets. If you do not want to replace your sofa every few months, you will need to train your cat to use cat scratching posts. Although this is not a difficult task, it can be time-consuming. It needs a lot of love, patience and understanding from you. If you cannot make this kind of commitment to your feline friend, you are better of giving him away.

Having said that, here is a shortcut which work for many cats. Catnip works wonders for training your cat to use the scratching post. For your convenience, modern science has created a catnip spray which you can use to spray the cat scratching post. You should place this post near the sofa or furniture where your cat likes to scratch. You should also get a cat repellant spray – to spray the places where he likes to scratch.

Many cats scratch furniture as a means of marking their territory. The scratching serves as a visible mark and also leaves behind a scent from the glands in his paws. This means your cat, or cats, probably have more than one favorite piece of furniture where they like to scratch. You will need to buy more than one scratching post.

Cats also scratch furniture as part of their exercise, as well as to shed the dead outer layers of their claws. You should not buy a cat scratching post just because it looks cool. You should buy a post which fits your cat best. One way is to find something which feels like your furniture or carpet. Do not limit your thoughts to just a scratching post. Cats which like to scratch carpets often respond well to something flat laid down flat on the ground. If your cat is like this, it may take longer to train him to use a vertical scratching post.

Given this fact, it is better if you only buy cat scratching posts from your local shops – where you can see and feel the material of the post. If it looks or feels different from the furniture which your cat is scratching now, he is unlikely to switch to the new post. This factor makes buying cat furniture online a bit chancy.

Cat scratching posts bought from the store can be expensive for some cat owners. Here are some ideas for cheap, homemade cat furniture:

• Cheap, square pieces of carpet which you can buy from WalMart, etc. Should cost you under $10. You may also be able to get some free from your local carpet shop.
• Cardboard cartons and boxes – you should be able to get these free from your local grocery shop.
• Wooden logs.
• Old furniture, or parts of old furniture. If you have some handy wood-working skills, you can turn a small cabinet into a cat house.
• Rough wooden planks.

Here is another shortcut to prevent your cat from damaging your furniture – regularly take him to the vet to get his nails clipped, either once or twice a month. The vet will clip the hooked part of the claw. This is the part which causes the most damage to your furniture and carpet. You may want the vet to teach you how to do it yourself. Please note that this is different from declawing your cat, which is cruel and inhumane. Declawing actually involves chopping off the tips of your cats toes. How would you feel if someone cut off the tips of your fingers?

Some cats appear intransigent, and refuse to use the cat scratching post. The fact is, you may just need to understand him better. And also use a different way of training him. You have to remember that shortcuts do not always work.

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Cat scratch disease is also known as cat scratch fever. This disease strikes people who are infected by the Bartonella henselae bacteria. In almost all cases, cat scratch disease occurs when the person was scratched or bitten by his cat. The cat itself does not catch cat scratch disease. It is just a carrier. Now, before you panic and send your cat to the pound, the National Center for Infectious Diseases (CDC) estimates that 40% of all cats carry this disease at some time in their lives. Considering how many cat owners exist in the world, clearly, this disease is not very infectious or dangerous.

But how do you know whether you were infected by cat scratch disease? The first thing you want to look at is the place your cat bit or scratched you. Is the wound infected? (Note: If you cannot find the wound, then you do not have cat scratch disease.) Then you want to check your lymph nodes. Are the nodes around your head, neck and upper limbs swollen? Do you also have fever, headache, fatigue, and a poor appetite? These are the typical cat scratch fever symptoms.

What can you do? The first step is always preventative. If you own a cat, or play with cats, you will definitely get bitten or scratched. What you should do every time you get scratched is simply to clean the wound with soap and running water. Then clean it with an antiseptic like peroxide and apply an antibiotic cream (neosporin works pretty well). Just applying these basic hygiene practise will prevent most cases of infection from cat bites or scratches, not just cat scratch disease.

What if you have already been infected – your wound is swollen and reddish, your lymph nodes are swollen and you have a fever? Then just go to your doctor. He will probably give you an antibiotic, and maybe drain the wound if necessary. You should also send your cats to the vet. Let him make sure they are not still carrying the bacteria. Otherwise they may infect you again, or infect other people.

In the long run, you need to train your cats not to bite or scratch too hard. Your cats need to learn how to show affection without drawing blood from you. And you need to learn not to provoke or over-excite your cats.

Provided that you are not the one who provoked the cat scratch, you can spray kitty with water every time it bites or scratches you. This means you will need to carry around a spray bottle with you at home. Spray kitty consistently when it bites you, and it will learn to stop biting you. Remember to spray when it bites – not 30 seconds later, or 1 minute later, or 5 minutes later. It will only learn if your response is immediate. Too many people spray only after the cat scratched or bit, then they complain that the technique does not work.

If your cat tends to bite or scratch you during playtime, then you need a different approach. Play with your cat normally. When he bites or scratches you, stop playing and ignore him. Too many people just continue playing – unfortunately, this teaches kitty that biting or scratching is good.

As you can see, cat scratch disease is not a big deal. As long as you practice basic hygiene, and train your cat not to bite or scratch too much, everything should be alright.

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Cat biting is the second most common cat behavioral problem after inappropriate cat peeing. Many cat owners just do not understand cat biting behavior, and fail to deal with it properly. Some owners get into a bad relationship with their cats, and end up putting them under. This is very sad. Do not let this happen to you and your cat.

The first question you want to ask yourself is: Does the biting draw blood, and when does it happen? If your cat bites you very often, and frequently draws blood, this is a behavior you want to stop. The best way is to carry a squeeze bottle of water with you. Anytime you are bitten, immediately spray a little bit of water at your cat’s face. You want to lightly shock kitty, not drench it. This sends a message to him that biting is not appropriate behavior. If you do this immediately and consistently, you will eventually break your cat of this problem behavior.

Sometimes, you are having fun with kitty, either petting him or playing with him, and he suddenly bites you. You want to take note of his body language – is he sending you a message to “STOP!”, or has he just switched to a different game? If he is telling you to stop, then you should stop. Maybe he has gotten bored, or just wants to do something else. You need to respect your cat – that is the only way to have a good relationship with him. On the other hand, if he has switched to a different game, then the ball is in your court. Do you want to play this new game, where he bites you? Or do you want to stop?

Now, you need to know the difference between your cat biting you and nipping you. One draws blood, the other does not. Cat bites which draw blood can be potentially dangerous, and is a behavioral problem you should stop. If kitty just nips you playfully, or gnaws on your knuckles or toes, he is just showing that he loves you. All of you new cat owners out there – this is NOT a problem. Repeat: this is not a problem.

Some cats just do not know how to control their strength. Sometimes, they were removed from their litter-mates or mother too early, and never learned that biting too hard is wrong. Other times, it is the fault of their owners. You may have unknowingly encouraged the cat biting problem. Either way, playtime can get pretty painful – unless you start using cat toys. A plushie or soft, stuffed toy is good. Let kitty play and wrestle with it instead of your fingers. You will both have fun without the pain. Another good toy is a little ball which bounces well. Or something which you can drag along the ground and let your cat chase after it.

Remember, do not over-react when your cat bites you. You need to be sensitive to your cat’s moods – is the biting a message, and when is it a behavior problem you need fix?

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Does your cat frequently bite or scratch people or other pets? This means it may be showing signs of aggression. Cat aggression can be dangerous and should not be tolerated. This does not mean you should punish your cat. On the contrary, you should diagnose the underlying cause of your cat’s aggression and get it properly treated. Below is a list of 9 common causes of aggressive behavior in your cat:

1. Pain Aggression – if your home environment remains the same, but your cat suddenly becomes aggressive, it may be because of some sudden sickness. For example, arthritis, dental problems or some other painful condition could cause your cat to become aggressive.
2. Play Aggression – your cat likes to play rough, biting and scratching you. Or it likes to stalk you or ambush you. In many cases, this is because your cat was taken away from its mother too soon, so it did not learn to moderate its aggression when playing. Another reason could be that you rough-house with your cat too much, hence conditioning it to be aggressive when playing.
3. Fear Aggression – kitty hisses, bares her teeth, and crouches low with its tail and legs tucked under its body. Its ears are flat against its head, its pupils are dilated, and its fur stands on end. These are signs that your cat is afraid of something, and is preparing to protect itself.
4. Predatory Aggression – your cat attacks your pet bird, or some other small animal like a mouse. This aggressiveness is actually your cat’s natural heritage: to hunt prey. Unfortunately, since these are modern times, and we are discussing your pet cat rather than some farm cat, this predatory behavior is probably not desirable.
5. Redirected Aggression – something seems to be provoking your cat, but when you approach it, it attacks you instead. Cats are no more logical than human beings. This is like your father becoming pissed off by something at work, then coming home and taking out his anger on you.
6. Petting Aggression – just like kids, a little bit of attention is great, but too much will set them off. You could be happily petting or playing with kitty just moments ago, but it suddenly became aggressive.
7. Status Aggression – your cat is trying to show you who’s boss. The symptoms are usually tail swishing, flattened ears, dilated pupils, growling, and hissing.
8. Territorial Aggression – you bring home a new cat or some other pet, and kitty chases or attacks it. Unneutered tomcats can be especially aggressive in defending their territory.
9. Maternal Aggression – your cat just gave birth, and will not allow you to get near her kittens.

This is not a comprehensive list, but should cover most cases of aggression. Not all causes of cat aggression can be treated. Some, like redirected aggression or maternal aggression, require that you recognize it and adapt yourself to it. Others, like pain aggression, will disappear once you remove the cause of pain.

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